On the right side you can find a menu with the header "SALES".
Here you can easily find all the items I have for sale.
I hope that I can offer some new (really new, used or really old) bike related stuff from time to time.
Form to register the dimensions of your bike
Attached is a form that you can use to register all the important data of your bicycle(s). If you measure you bike, download, print and fill out the form and store it well, it may be a great help if you want to build a new bike, rebuild your bike after maintenence, etc.
Note that this is not a geometry chart of your frame, but it contains all the important data of your fully equipped bike, to get your position right.
Saddle height, front/aft position, reach, handlebar height, etc.
Note that this is not a geometry chart of your frame, but it contains all the important data of your fully equipped bike, to get your position right.
Saddle height, front/aft position, reach, handlebar height, etc.
SOLD: LOOK Ergostem
Dura Ace rear track hub 28H
It took me a while to find an affordable 28 hole rear track hub, but yesterday I won one on Ebay Germany.
Vintage Shimano Dura Ace high flange. It was a complete rear wheel, but to save some money for postage, I asked the seller to send me the hub and sprocket only. He can keep rim and tubular in exchange for the effort.
This rear hub will be laced up with a new 26" Mavic GL330 tubular rim. The Giant road bike with horizontal dropouts will be converted to a track bike with 26" wheels. At least I'll give it a try.
Vintage Shimano Dura Ace high flange. It was a complete rear wheel, but to save some money for postage, I asked the seller to send me the hub and sprocket only. He can keep rim and tubular in exchange for the effort.
This rear hub will be laced up with a new 26" Mavic GL330 tubular rim. The Giant road bike with horizontal dropouts will be converted to a track bike with 26" wheels. At least I'll give it a try.
Project "Black & White" Reco completed
Reco bike ready for some time, but no chance to shoot pictures of the whole bike in different set-ups.
Still no very nice pictures, but a good (rough) impression how it looks like.
Time for something new! It may take a year (or some years) to finish, but it has already begun.
This bike on Velospace

Still no very nice pictures, but a good (rough) impression how it looks like.
Time for something new! It may take a year (or some years) to finish, but it has already begun.
This bike on Velospace
Tie Reynolds for sale
SOLD: Mavic TT/bullhorn/pursuit handlebars for sale
Vinyl decals applied
Finally I got someone to make my decals. It's a nightmare to find someone who is able to do this and for a reasonable price. Of course, I just wanted 1 or 2 sets and that is not really interesting for regular sticker makers.
These people made it happen: http://www.texelsigns.nl
The idea with home made waterslides didn't work out well for the large decals. Since it is difficult to cut out the tiny detailed stuff with scissors freehand, I used a black background. The contrast between the black paint and the decals was too big.
Now all decals have been cut out of white vinyl foil. Some attempts in vinyl didn't work out, because the design is very detailed and it requires i-cutting. Freehand cutting of vinyl was no option.
Quite some work to make the final artwork (I worked out many versions including colours, printing, multiple layers ink or vinyl, etc) and appearantly not easy to cut. It's a combination of filled letters and outlines (less than 1 mm).
I've just applied the stuff and clearcoat has to follow. I'm happy with the result. It's about 99% of what I had in mind (okay, still the easiest and cheapest version) and it came out nicely.
The coloured Columbus frame and fork decals are home made waterslides (decal paper for a laser printer).
Downtube, right:

Downtube, right - detail:

Downtube, left:

Downtube, left - detail:

Toptube, right:

Toptube, left:
These people made it happen: http://www.texelsigns.nl
The idea with home made waterslides didn't work out well for the large decals. Since it is difficult to cut out the tiny detailed stuff with scissors freehand, I used a black background. The contrast between the black paint and the decals was too big.
Now all decals have been cut out of white vinyl foil. Some attempts in vinyl didn't work out, because the design is very detailed and it requires i-cutting. Freehand cutting of vinyl was no option.
Quite some work to make the final artwork (I worked out many versions including colours, printing, multiple layers ink or vinyl, etc) and appearantly not easy to cut. It's a combination of filled letters and outlines (less than 1 mm).
I've just applied the stuff and clearcoat has to follow. I'm happy with the result. It's about 99% of what I had in mind (okay, still the easiest and cheapest version) and it came out nicely.
The coloured Columbus frame and fork decals are home made waterslides (decal paper for a laser printer).
Downtube, right:
Downtube, right - detail:
Downtube, left:
Downtube, left - detail:
Toptube, right:
Toptube, left:
New Reco track bike ready to ride
The new track bike is ready now and I already raced it.
Yesterday night, I did some minor races on the track in Apeldoorn.
I didn't ride the bike before, so I wasn't sure how it felt and performed. Luckily I did measure everything well, so there were no re-adjustments necessary. One thing I wasn't used to was the short crank length. I never rode 165 mm cranks before and I must admit that it felt very different from my regular 170 mm track cranks, especially in a race.
About the bike: the decals I used are the home made water slides. Doesn't look very nice, so, I may have to take these off and try another set. Or my mate in U.K. will finally deliver the vinyl ones...


Yesterday night, I did some minor races on the track in Apeldoorn.
I didn't ride the bike before, so I wasn't sure how it felt and performed. Luckily I did measure everything well, so there were no re-adjustments necessary. One thing I wasn't used to was the short crank length. I never rode 165 mm cranks before and I must admit that it felt very different from my regular 170 mm track cranks, especially in a race.
About the bike: the decals I used are the home made water slides. Doesn't look very nice, so, I may have to take these off and try another set. Or my mate in U.K. will finally deliver the vinyl ones...
Colours and artwork Reco
The "new" Reco track frame is in the paintshop for powdercoating and will become glossy black with a layer of clearcoat.
Meanwhile, I've tried to come up with a suitable "skin design".
It's rather complicated to produce, also because my contact for printing and cutting vinyl decals has less possibilities than I thought.
Now I've found someone else who is trying to make the white decals (outlined letters and full white letters) in vinyl. I hope that it's all done automatically and that it comes out nicely.
For the printed part of the decals I'm going to try something new.
I've ordered decal paper that can be printed on a laserjet and inkjet (colour) printer. The negative aspect is, that I have to cut the decals by hand. This makes it hard to do difficult cutouts. When everything works out well, I have water slide decals in full colour that can easily be applied on the freshly coated frame. A light layer of clear coat has to be enough to protect the decals.
Meanwhile, I've tried to come up with a suitable "skin design".
It's rather complicated to produce, also because my contact for printing and cutting vinyl decals has less possibilities than I thought.
Now I've found someone else who is trying to make the white decals (outlined letters and full white letters) in vinyl. I hope that it's all done automatically and that it comes out nicely.
For the printed part of the decals I'm going to try something new.
I've ordered decal paper that can be printed on a laserjet and inkjet (colour) printer. The negative aspect is, that I have to cut the decals by hand. This makes it hard to do difficult cutouts. When everything works out well, I have water slide decals in full colour that can easily be applied on the freshly coated frame. A light layer of clear coat has to be enough to protect the decals.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)















