Adidas cyclocross shoes

I've restored 2 retro cyclocross bikes, so I was in the need for a pair of classic 'cross shoes. I've got a truckload of SPD compatible shoes post 1990, but I've dumped my vintage shoes. So, during the Stalen Ros bike jumble in Neerkant last Sunday, I kept my eyes open for a pair that would fit and yes, I was extremely lucky. I found a pair Adidas cyclocross shoes, new in a box and, although a bit tight, they fit! Exactly the same shoes as I bought new in 1989, when I drove over to the Adidas wholesaler in Belgium.
At that time, these Adidas shoes were just new on the market and considered to be the best of its kind. Nice leather upper, treaded sole with a flat spot for cleats, walking comfort, closure with shoe laces, leather flaps (covering the laces) that are closed with velcro and press-studs. Maybe its predecessor in shiny black leather was a bit better and nicer though, a proof that new isn't always better...
One I joined the Shimano company in 1990, I got the 1st series of PD-M737 off-road SPD pedals and matching SH-M100 shoes. I've tried to drill the soles of the Adidas shoes and fit a pair of SPD shoe cleats. The result was a disaster, because the cleats were not properly sunken in the shoe treads and the soles were too flexible to ride well with the small cleats and pedals. SPD systems require stiff soles. The Adidas shoes were ruined and I think I've dumped them soon after. At that time no real problem, because I got all the shoes and pedals I needed.
Nowadays, when you want a pair of classic 'cross shoes, you have a problem, because they are so damn rare. And modern MTB shoes are a bad combination with cage pedals, toe clips and straps. Because almost all shoes are closed with one or more velcro straps, it's nearly impossible to get into the clips quickly. You either have to look for a pair of (cheaper) shoes with shoe laces only or one higher placed velcro strap, that doesn't interfere with the clips and straps. But the best solution is to look for a set of high end classic 'cross shoes from Adidas, Sidi, Rivat, or an equivalent. Or go clipless with a click-in retention system, but that may be not retro enough for your taste.

New decals for Reco track bike part II

I've applied all the decals, applied a layer of clear coat and assembled the bike again. Now the Reco Pista Special track bike is more or less original again and I hope it's been done justice.

Frame: Reco Pista Special (Regter Construction), mixture of Columbus SL and Reynolds steel
Front fork: Reco (Regter Construction), mixture of Columbus SL and Reynolds steel
Head set: Shimano Dura Ace HP-7410 cartridge type
Bottom Bracket set: Shimano Dura Ace BB-7600 English threading NJS
Crank set: Shimano Dura Ace FC-7600 165 mm, NJS, 52T and 50T 3/32" chain ring
Pedals: Shimano Dura Ace PD-7400 and PD-7700 SPD-R
Sprocket: Shimano Dura Ace SS-7600, 3/32", 14T, 15T, 16T
Seat post: Shimano Dura Ace SP-7410, 27.2 mm
Saddle: Selle San Marco Concor Light Team Edition
Handlebar stem: 3ttt Record 14 cm
Handlebars: 3ttt Super Competizione Gimondi 44 o-o bars
Handlebar tape: Bike Ribbon Eleganza black
Chain: SRAM PC870 3/32"
Wheels: Shimano HB-7600 / Wolber Profil 20 tubular, 36H
Tyres: Tubulars

Alternative wheels:
Mavic Comete disc wheel rear with Shimano CS-MX66 sprocket 15T or 16T.
Front wheel Shimano HB-7700 hub, FIR Antara rim, 28 spokes.
Tubulars Continental Tempo 22.

New decals for Reco track bike

I've decided that my Reco track bike has to be restored with its original decals. I've contacted the frame builder, Ben Regter, and asked for some decals. He was so kind to send me a couple of sets by post, but there were 2 problems. First, the colour wasn't good. Black decals on black paint don't work well. Second, the adhesive wasn't good anymore. So, I decided to make reproductions. I scanned the original decals and measured them. With Adobe Illustrator, I traced the scanned decals and fine tuned it manually. The frame builder bought stock decals from Italy and had to convert these from "Record" to "Reco". In the past, this was a nasty job with scissors and a black marker, but in our digital era it's easier and you have to do it once.
In the meantime, I wrote to Jeroen from and asked him if he could help me out. He made a very reasonable offer and after making some adjustments to the .eps files on his advice, I sent him the artwork. A couple of days later I had 2 full sets of decals on my door mat. Beautifully printed, cut out letters and logos, each decal on backing paper and application foil. The application was a bit of a hassle, but somehow I managed. Next time I have to ensure that the decals on the LH and RH side of the frame (top, down and seat tube) are connected somehow or on the same piece of application foil. That should make it a lot easier to centre and apply. Right now I'm busy applying a layer of clear coat. Once that is done, I'm going to assemble the bike again and shoot some new pictures.